SYRIA - JOURNEY TO THE PAST (PART 8)

15/05/09 (Saturday)

Today is our last day in Syria. As for that, we pay our last visit to the Jami’ Umayyad and nearby places like the Mausoleum of Saladin. We waited for the mosque’s gate to open as we would like to avoid traffic with the Arabs especially at the Mausoleum of Prophet Yahya and Hussein. Alhamdulillah we got chance to have our last look at the place undisturbed; don’t know when we will ever get the chance to come here again.

As for me, this trip is considered as a lifetime experience. I’ve learned to more appreciate and like history and more or less got to know the nice Syrian people. Thanks to the Malaysian students who spared their time and accompanied us for the trip to Aleppo and Bosra. May Allah bless you in the alreade barakah place of Syria; the place of history, glory and ruins…a journey to the past not to be missed.

SYRIA - JOURNEY TO THE PAST (PART 7)

14/05/09 (Friday)

Today we were not just sitting back or relax in the hotel after yesterday whole day journey. Yet we continued our quest to the south of Damascus to Bosra, which is located at the north of the current Syria-Jordan border. This time we were riding a smaller van, with a well known driver among the Malaysian students there: Yassin.

In Syria, the Malaysian students called the male students as Syabab while the female students as akhawaat. The – are encouraged to wear hijab covering their face except their eyes as to avoid seduce and sexual harassment by the unethical outsiders.

The journey to Bosra only took about one and a half hour. We first took a walk around the citadel, which was still remained the old buildings (though remnants left) like houses, mosques and hammam manjak.

This place was initially built by Rome, which influenced its architectural buildings, like the underground bazaar, Arch of Victory and al-Kalybe (the bed of the King’s bed).

There is also famous Church of Bahira, the monk who met with the Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) when he was a kid, on his journey to Bosrah. Bahira gave him the glad tidings of his prophet hood and embraced Islam since then.

After Islamic ruling to the city, there are many mosques with names of related to the Prohet Muhammad (pbuh) like Umar al-Khattab (the oldest mosque in Syria and the fourth oldest mosque in the world) and Saidatina Fatimah. Masjid al-Mabrak is claimed to be the place of the Prophet’s camel kneeled down during his visit to Bosra.

The amazing thing I found here was that I could see people still leaving in the area with the past, happily and comfortably. The kids are playing at the historical remnants of buildings and rocks while most other kids nowadays are playing with computer games and play station. Two separate different world I suppose…

There is also a theatre in Bosra, whisch is much bigger than in Aleppo. It was buil in the 2^nd century A.D. and is considered as the only complete theatre in the world that still preserves all its sections and structural elements from the Roman era. It can accommodate more than 10,000 people and split into 3 levels separated by walkways consisting of 37 steps. It was soo curam that I felt so gayat while being on the topmost stairs. I was not dare to walk down the stairs to the main stage.

After had an adventurous day in Bosra, we went to Daraa, the place of Maqam of Prophet Ayub and his son. We then stopped by at Maqam Imam Nawawi at Nawaa. MashaAllah, a large tree grew on its own above his grave and he is well known as Prophet Muhammad Hadith compilers but died at early age of 40s and not married. It is said that his work of writings are more than the number of his age when he died. Subhanallah, may Allah bless his soul.

Today lunch was a fiest. We were warmly welcomed by the van driver to his home at Nawaa. We were served with trays of mountainous rice and lambs. A lamb was orderd to be qurban for our lunch on that day. There were about three people for each tray and I can say that as we ate, the dish seemed not changing, still many. Very very full…

Source:

• Bosra History and Ruins by Suloeiman al Shahma

SYRIA - JOURNEY TO THE PAST (PART 6)

13/05/09 (Thursday)

We continued our trip today with quite a hectic day. In the early morning, we started our journey to the north of Damascus to Aleppo by a coach with some other of my mother’s friends and the Malaysian students studying there. This trip was lead by Dr. Kamaruzzaman, UKM lecturer who had been in Syria few years back during his sabbatical leave. Thanks to him that we had a very good explanation throughout the trip.

Aleppo is also known as ‘halab’ in Arabic, which means milk. I took 4 hours drive to the place and we were glad to have a comfortable drive and good drivers too. I think the only place that you can see an English man/woman to speak in Arabic very well is in Syria coz their faces are very look alike with the Americans or British, also called as ‘mat saleh’ by the Malays.
We had an Arabic breakfast that day, which was not bad and very healthy (with many salads). There were still many beautiful big roses could be seen in the yard even the summer has began.

We stopped by at the Holy Mashhad. It is the place of the stone where Imam Hussein’s (the Prophet’s grandson’s) head being temporarily placed following his martyrdom in Karbala (61 Hijr) before it was buried in Jami’ Umayyad at Damascus. It was considered as a sacred place especially by the Shiites. I could see the male were crying sadly while praying and looking at the designated place.

Then we went to the famous citadel of Aleppo (12-16 Masehi). We could see building remnants and rocks inside the citadel, hammam (place of bath, with series of steam rooms of increasing temperature), underground prison (creepy) and the theatre. There is also the tomb of Prophet Khaidir inside the citadel.

For lunch, we had special serving at nearby restaurant, which I considered as the smallest serving I ever had during my stay in Syria, a small bowl of rice and two chicken drumsticks. Tasty, nyum nyum…While in hot summer, it is thirst quenching to have some drink of tamar hindi, a traditional juice taste like tamarind juice, not so sweet nor sour, just nice.
Besides the historical building, Aleppo is famous for its souq (bazaar) as the clothes and hand crafts are cheaper because it is the place where the products come from. We bought many cheap jubah there, with the help of Fathiyah (Malaysian student studying there), who was very good in bargaining. She also taught us one trick in buying…The Syrian is considered as among the most polite Arabs and they won’t be angry if you come and only have a look at their sell products. Before you agree with their price, get away first as if you don’t want to buy coz later they usually will call you back and give cheaper price. If you are good, you can even get half of the original price…easy? Practice makes perfect…

There is also a Jami’ Umayyad here in Aleppo, similar name as in Damascus. But in this mosque, there is Mausoleum of Prophet Zakaria a.s. The doors are not only located besides the road at the entrance but also located between the shops in the souq. This shows the importance of accessibility of praying place even among the busy life of trading in the souq, so that everyone can perform their obligatory prayers.
During our journey back to Damascus, we also stopped by at Hama and Homs. Hama is famous for its oldest watermills. The ancient watermills also known as norias and produce weird noise. But behind the calmness of the river, there’s a black history of blood-shed occurred here during The Hama massacre (Arabic: مجزرة حماة‎) on February 2, 1982. The Syrian army bombarded the town of Hama in order to stop a revolt by the Muslim Brotherhood. An estimated 7,000 to 40,000 people were killed, including about 1,000 soldiers.

A Homs, we went to pray at Jami’ Khaled bin al-Waled; the place of Khaled al Waled’s tomb rest. He is well known as the only Islamic warrior who never failed in any battles that he participated. But he was very disappointed coz he won’t be able to die as a martyr in battle but on his bed. As a Muslim, we know that we can thrive in our doing but in the end, the final words will be in the hands of Allah s.w.t. the All-Knowing.
One hour before midnight, we save arrived in our cozy hotel, very tired but contented…

Source:

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Hama_massacre

SYRIA, A JOURNEY TO THE PAST (PART 5)

12/05/09 (Wednesday)

Today I followed my mother’s conference delegates (engineering) to Qunaitra, the Capital City of Golan Heights. Little I know about this place and this is the first time I heard about the tragedy and conflicts which has occurred in this place few years back.

The Golan Heights has different names (Hebrew: רמת הגולן‎ / Ramat HaGolan, Arabic: هضبة الجولان‎/ Haḍbatu 'l-Jawlān or مرتفعات الجولان / Murtafaʕātu 'l-Jawlān). It is a strategic place for plantation and mountainous region at the southern end of the Anti-Lebanon Mountains. Previously it was popular for its black stones, rocks used in buildings and house decorations. Currently, it is considered as ‘no man’s land’ and currently under United Nation control, who conserves the security of the areas and still being hotly contested land between Syria and Israel. No outsiders can enter this area except with permission and escort. And we got the privilege as we got chance to meet the Syrian government there and being escort by policemen throughout.

Geographically, Golan plateau encompasses about 1,800 km² and lies within borders of Syria, Israel, Lebanon and Jordan.

Politically it is an area of disputed sovereignty, 1,200 km² areas. Initially it was the Syrian territory from 1944 until being captured by Israel on 9-10 June 1967 during the Six-Day War. Since then, the area has remained under Israeli control but a portion was later returned to Syria in 1973. In 1981, the area was annexed by Israel, a move not recognized and condemned internationally and called "inadmissible" by the UN Security Council.

While in the place, we go to see the remaining buildings and houses destroyed by the Israelis. It was heart-broken to see the demolishment done to the areas. The hospital (Golan Mustashfaa) which was occupied with 400 beds and 4 surgical operations was being targeted place of shooting by the heartless Israelis armies. We could see the effects of bullets and firearms shooting along the building’s wall. I can’t imagine how terrified was at that war time.

In 2006, the United Nations General Assembly adopted a resolution calling on Israel to end its occupation of the Golan, while declaring all the legislative and administrative measures taken by Israel in the Golan null and void. Statistically now, there are 40,000 people staying in Golan Heights: half are Arabs and the remaining halve are the incoming Jews in 42 placements (July 2008). Though the Israelis agreed to return the occupied territory to Syrian government but they want to take the water source. This is clearly injustice and obviously not agreed by the Syria as the whole areas was actually claimed to be theirs.

While on the way back, we’ve got to see the tall Jabal Shaikh, which got ice that never melt on its top most. There are many green plantations of weeds, fruits and vegetables along the way. Now I know why Syria is called as one of the largest and richest oasis in the world. And that’s may be the reason of usurpation of Golan Heights between Syria and Israel.

Source:

• http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Golan_Heights
• SYRIA Bumi Barakah - Malaysian Student Association In Syria